By Candy Shiveley
Contentment Farm Antique Textiles & Vintage Clothing

Collecting antique and vintage clothing is an interesting and rewarding area.  The hardest decision that a new collector will have to make is where to begin.  Is condition really important?  What era is the most collectible?  Should you collect a specific style of clothing or perhaps an accessory that spans many eras?  What about price?  All of these are excellent questions to ask yourself and considering each is an important step that will help the new collector find their direction.

First, let’s consider condition.  Yes, it is important!  That said we are talking about antique and vintage fabrics which have been used and most likely worn, to expect perfection is unrealistic.  Even museum pieces will have some flaws, wear and perhaps even a few small stains, these are to be expected on items that were used in everyday life.  Aside from obvious rips or repairs, you will want to avoid pieces that have dry rot, shattering of silk fabrics (seen as shredding or splitting in the fabric), or more than just a touch of perspiration discoloration in the area of the underarms.  Another thing to look for when considering condition is the originality of the piece, does it have alterations.  Some alteration may be acceptable, especially period alterations to accommodate another wearer if it does not affect the original style of the piece. 

Eras that are most collectible can change with the wind.  The popularity of certain eras can be most affected by popular movies of the moment.  In the last few years we have seen the demand for Edwardian clothing increase with the opening of the movie Titanic, Civil War era clothing was moving faster than ever with the release of Cold Mountain, and The Aviator made clothing of the 1930’s soar.  Here is where I tell you to collect what you love, an era or category that you are drawn to, one that speaks to you.  For example, there are two things that I buy specifically to keep for myself, the first are antique mannequins especially wax mannequins with glass eyes and human hair, the second are early hair pieces ranging from 1840’s bonnet curls to a 1920’s gold metallic wig with “Princess Leah” coils over the ears.  The mannequins are obvious as a collection for me as I do use them for display and you will see them in my shop showcasing hats and other pieces.  The hairpieces are just something that has always fascinated me and I enjoy studying them and learning more about their uses and origins.                               

Now you’ve decided to focus on an era, 1850’s or 1920’s, or a category of vintage clothing, like shoes or evening wraps.  The best advice that I can give you at this point is to learn as much as you can, not just about the clothing or accessories that you want to focus on but the era/s within which they were worn.  This will give you a great understanding and context for your collection.  It will add a dimension you will find priceless in building your collection.  An understanding of everyday life will help you come to understand how the pieces were used and worn, why alterations would have been made, and which pieces are the special pieces to be added to your ever growing collection. 

Finally, we come to price.  This is probably the most difficult question to answer.  In part is depends on your budget and, in part is depends on what the purpose of your collection is.  Do you want to wear the pieces you collect, perhaps for reenactment?  Would you like to have a museum collection to be loaned and displayed?  Are you collecting as an investment?  While a museum collection may focus on rarity, not all rare pieces are expensive.  Some items, though rare, may not be in demand therefore the price will be lower than a piece that might be much more common with greater popularity.  Basically, buy for the best that you can afford.  I know it’s a cliché but it is a cliché to live by.  You will always do better buying that one special piece for $1000 that you would have been buying five average pieces for $200 each.  This doesn’t mean that you can’t find a special piece for $200, you can; just learn to recognize those great buys when you find them!