Cousin Clara's India Shawl Circa 1860s

Found in an old dress box that had been sealed for years and bearing the inscription, "Cousin Clara's India Shawl". The condition of this shawl is exceptional and it was obviously treasured by Clara and her relatives who kept is stored so well for so many years.

Measuring 70" square this shawl is of the type referred to in its native India as "jamawar" or gown piece which refers to the striped weave with no borders present. According to Frank Ames in his book "The Kashmir Shawl", the 'jamawar tapestry' shawl was constructed of various borders, woven panels and embroidered fringes. The central design was usually made up of two or three rectangular panels which were then carefully meshed together. Often this was performed so perfectly that the shawl must be flipped over to locate the invisible seam.

This shawl is made of twill or tapestry woven stripes in varying width in shades of blue, red and black with multicolored designs and are sewn together with small solid stripes in red, gold, black and white. There are 16 wide stripes. The yarn is wool of a heavier and coarser weight than is normally found, but the combination with the bright colors is wonderful and rich.