Printed Wool Challis Day Dress Circa 1840s

Dress styles of the 1840's were meant to emphasize the graceful and feminine features of women. The low, pointed waistline emphasized a thinner waist while organ pleats on the skirt lent a soft, even fullness. Worn over several stiff petticoats a dome like shape would have been achieved.

This dress most likely dates between 1846 and 1850. The sleeves appear to be the predecessor to the full pagoda sleeves that would become popular in the following decade. The bodice front and sleeve edge are trimmed with a moss green silk fringe and the sleeves, which are split at the wrist are also trimmed with narrow decorative cord attached to form a lattice in the open space.

The bodice is fully lined in natural cotton with boning at the center front. Closure is in the back with hooks and eyes. Piping has been used at the armscyes as well as the waistline where you will also find organ pleating. The skirt is unlined.

The fabric of this dress is an open-weave wool with a lattice pattern worked into the weaving. A pattern of floral vines is printed over the woven pattern. Floral prints began to find favor in the 1830s and by the 1840s were most popular for dressmaking. These prints were much less expensive than their woven counterparts and the patterns disguised spots and stains.

The overall condition of the dress is very good. No staining or alterations are noted. The fabric does have some thin areas most noticeable along the back closure and on the underside of the sleeves. There are some scattered holes and breaks in the fabric on the skirt that could easily be reinforced from the back without detracting from the beauty and display ability of the dress. These do not detract from this lovely dress and are only noticeable when the fabric is held to the light. A lovely piece of history.